Friday, March 2, 2012

“…to ashes you shall return.” Ash Wednesday in Downtown, Cairo


 During this time of year, especially during the Lenten season, I find myself questioning many things regarding religion and spirituality. I’ve never questioned my own **I hate to use this word** “faith” as much as I have since being in Cairo this past year. Unspeakable things have happened but I’ve raged against the storm, probably making matters much worse for myself—which actually leads to great humility and the ability to laugh at oneself on a later date.

Due to my excellent southern charm **ha, ha** and the wonderful friends I’ve made here, I found myself bribing two of the most wonderful to attend an Ash Wednesday service with me in Cairo. I decided on Tuesday that I would participate in the Daniel Fast for the third time in my life. Basically the fast requires that you cut out all “rich foods” from your diet and you are only allowed to eat fruits, veggies, brown rice, water, and seasonings such as salt and pepper. This 21 day fast continues to be one of the hardest things I’ve done, and the first three days are the absolute worst since my body starts to convulse and protest in anger regarding the lack of caffeine, sugar, and carbs that it’s not receiving. However, on about the 9th day I’ve never felt so amazing and complete strangers compliment how nice my skin looks or how happy I am—I very well should be since there’s nothing toxic meandering around inside!

So once again, I began pouring through the pages of The Ultimate Daniel Fast (it’s currently $3.99 for the Amazon Kindle!) and began to make notes of who to pray for, what to pray about, and what I wanted to change or improve in my life. Each person/group/idea would be placed under each calendar day of the fast. Sounds easy enough, right?

After this was said and done I found myself hustling my two dear American friends, Angela and Matt, into a taxi to Heliopolis, only to find that the church actually wasn’t in Heliopolis but in Downtown, Cairo. Oopsies.
After speeding through traffic with the Egyptian Eval Kaneval taxi driver he drops us off in the middle of a rather filthy street and mutters something in Arabic, meaning that there are two churches—one of your left, one on your right. Good luck! Well, to the left it was.

6:50 p.m.—An Egyptian gatekeeper opens the gate and welcomes us in Arabic. I felt a pang in my chest and thought, “Oh God, I promised Angela that this service is English. She’s going to kill me and give me as sacrificial offering…” I quickly looked at the two men sitting to the left, just inside of the decrepid gate, and asked, “St. Andrews?” They both nodded and pointed toward the church. I couldn’t help but smile just a bit as we made our way up to the strange building. Perhaps it looked odd in the lights of Cairo, but I felt a little bit more comfortable inside of the church grounds.

6:57 p.m.—We found the door into the sanctuary; beside of it there was a sign that explained the church services available. **Hallelujah, the service was in English!** I stepped inside, not wanting to be late, and realized that we were the first church goers. Since St. Andrews is a non-denominational church it was a bit hard for me to place the three men of the church with their titles. There was an interim pastor, perhaps a deacon of sorts, and another pastor—or preacher, if you will. As soon as we shook their hands and sat down Matt said, “This feels like home.” Something overcame me at that moment. I was almost nervous about the service. It was my first church service since I left home at the beginning of August, besides the German Christmas service I attended in Fliderstadt with Sebastian, but that one hardly counts since I literally only understood about seven words of the whole thing. 

7:00 p.m.—The service was due to begin but a few people kept filing in. I counted 31 in total, including the three leading the service. We sat in small, rickety rows that were very close to the alter. Some sat farther down by the piano, there were two small girls there. Only three men in total, besides the men of the church, were in attendance. There was a greeting and then a leading prayer. I was glad to hear the familiar words of prayer and the call to worship. I found it slightly humorous that the hymnbooks were Presbyterian, but better to have some than nothing at all.

I lost track of time.
My mind was buzzing and my heart was, indescribable. Taxis and shouts outside kept interfering with my thoughts. Why couldn’t I focus? Had it been too long since I’d been to a service? Is there such a thing—my preacher would argue, yes. I think.

I looked to my left and Matt’s lips were closed, his eyes were shut quite tightly, and he was deep in…thought, or prayer perhaps. He had mentioned that he had been toying with concepts, ideas, and history regarding Christianity. I was almost pleased to hear it, and for the past few years I’ve done the same. Partially because of being a scholar of religion and partially because of other religious beliefs I’ve encountered. I still consider myself to be of Methodist denomination, but in fact tend to incorporate rituals from other religions into my personal forms of practice.

On my right Angela looked serene. It was hard to place her. Then I realized I should be placing myself in the middle of the service, not analyzing every tiny detail around me.

The next thing I knew we were asked to come forth to receive the ashes, on either our foreheads on hand. I watched the first row move forward in silence. I was entranced and could smell candles or incense burning around me. I thought about my church at home, the familiar faces—jokes made during the sermon, the loud “amen’s” coming from one of my favorite men in the church, my hands being squeezed by Tina and Heather. Again, I found myself looking at my two friends with great fondness. It’s amazing how love and friendship can be found so easily, if you let it.

Our row stood up and I clomped to the end of the row (I wore heeled BCBG boots and found myself being a bit louder than I wished). It was my turn to have the ashes rubbed on my forehead. I silently said the familiar words I heard every Ash Wednesday. The pastor’s cool finger moved in a cross over my face. Another pang in my chest.

After the service I found myself in the fellowship hall, just so we could check it out. We were also the first ones in but others followed behind us, looking forward to cake and refreshments. A man came in and said that we couldn’t leave the church grounds because there was a shooting just outside. Oh, fabulous. Our scare was reconfirmed via phone conversation just minutes after.

As we were discussing what to do next a lady introduced herself to me. Annie from Charleston, South Carolina made my night. We quickly began talking, I told her my family lives in Charleston and how I missed chicken and dumplings. She told me that she could make some mean cornbread and chicken potpie. We shared our love over a nice pair of boots and for Harry Potter (apparently she also had a Harry Potter party in her church once, but didn’t get in as much trouble for it as I did with Heather, the preacher’s daughter). We talked about the South and how we missed our churches and families there. I began to realize that maybe home wasn’t so far away after all. She gave me her number and told me to call her, of course.

I have a lot to be thankful for—such amazing people who will Skype me at any minute of the day if I really needed them to. Friends who will wash tar off of me after a night of mayhem, friends who will bring pizza and movies to me when I’m sick, loved ones who fly all the way to Egypt just to see me, sisters who message me just to say hello, a boyfriend who can make me smile in an instant, family who ships Girlscout cookies, homemade banana bread and soap just to make life in Cairo less stressful. God has blessed me in ways that I could never imagine. Even in the midst of a shooting, with traffic piled up for miles, and confusing thoughts of religion and questioning swarming in my head I was blessed with a little piece of home. 

Saturday, February 18, 2012

"Hayeti, you gotta roll the hips and control the dips!"

I've had a very happy two days. :)

Yesterday I finally decided to move myself to the middle of nowhere, to an absolutely charming little studio--free from honking traffic, adorable (yet ferocious) barking canines, and shouts of Arabic nonsense. My new flat is quite close to AUC campus and I'll be moving in on the 22nd. I had lots of good vibes when I visited today and couldn't stop smiling. Places that are constantly louder than I am are apparently not my forte. I've decided I get antsy after about 3 months of sameness. Sameness + Craziness/Trapped Feeling = Recipe for Whitney Disaster.

Thankfully I spent 3 hours yesterday at this cute cafe in Maadi with my precious friend, Dina, sharing delectable coffee and caramel ice cream, while painting coffee mugs! They will be ready after 5 days, I can't wait to see our finished works of art. My masterpiece is adorned with an under the sea-mermaid type of thing, in honor of my favorite Almost-Brit known as the lovely Kate Smith.

With the sweetest friends at the Naked Earth event in Maadi!
Also, yesterday was the one month mark of when a certain German boy will be visiting me in Cairo! So much exploring and fun times to look forward to. Beaches in Hurghada, seafood and friends in Alexandria, winding streets of Cairo...*sigh*

P.S. I went to this hilariously amazing belly dancing cabaret a week or so ago. Here are some photos that almost justify this majestic experience.

Possibly the worst belly dancer I have ever seen. However, we all couldn't stop laughing. Such fun! :)




We were the only ones there for the longest time. More drinks for us!



A despicable shisha but the belly dancing made up for it!



Valentine's Day was just around the corner. The little lips were quite cute.

Friday, February 10, 2012

Shakira and Jawahe visit the Valley of Kings

To continue my story of Luxor, I must now tell how amazing and unforgettable it was, regardless of what happened on the train. After spending only a few moments with the big chief in the police station I was seriously thinking about, well awful things to say to him. Jayanni kept looking at me, slightly exasperated I believe, and would say, "Whitney...it's okay. Now, Whitney..."

The "big chief" was a big idiot. I swear any of my younger cousins would have been more productive than this man. He wouldn't listen to anything I was saying and continued to chastise me for not speaking better Arabic. I thought that he would have been sorry if my Arabic was better. In that moment this strange, red haired younger gentleman glided through the door wearing a traditional galabiya. I was taken aback but knew instantly that this was our Couchsurfing host, Ernesto from Nicaragua. The big chief greeted him like an old friend and began to ask him all sorts of questions about the train ride, what was stolen from me, where I lived, and other general questions. Ernesto explained that he wasn't on the train with me and was just meeting us for the first time. The big chief, confused as ever, continued asking Ernesto questions even though he obviously couldn't answer them. After an hour or so I finally had an official police report, written on a piece of wide-ruled paper and stamped. He told us to come back in a day or so to get tickets to return to Cairo.
With our dear host, Ernesto, as we wait semi-patiently for our henna to dry.
Ernesto grabbed my monstrous bag and took off through the station as Jay and I followed him. I stepped outside into the sun and felt a little better, then realized I was absolutely starving. We stopped at this little cafe type place for some hummus, bread, and soup. Ernesto had pizza, apparently one of the best places for pizza. We decided it would be best to go to his home and relax before doing anything else. Ernesto said that we had to take a ferry then a small minibus to his house, which was fine by us. As Jay and I walked to the ferry the view was breathtaking. The city swallowed us whole but I felt safe and at ease. Ernesto told us that we were looking at the ancient city of Thebes. Well, hello Thebes...nice to meet you!

The rest of the trip was magical, all a part from being heckled for extra piasters here and there. Tourism has really dropped within this area of Egypt and it's more often than not the only way the people made their living was by selling their crafts at the ancient sites or in front of shops. It was different than in Cairo and no one was hostile towards us.
Jay and I sightseeing in Luxor. I had to wear my glasses all day due to our furry, feline friend named Mimosa!
The Valley of Kings proved to be as unreal as you can imagine. Jay and I spent a few hours at the site. Many of the rooms looked like they had been painted just yesterday. I snapped photos to store in my favorite memories of the beautiful black and blue ceilings, painted with stars and hieroglyphics. Jayanni was so intrigued by the ankhs and we both loved the little owls that we saw painted everywhere. Some of the images were sketched so deeply into the wall, it was incredible to try and interpret what was created so long ago.
The color in the temple was still so vivid! Could you possibly imagine what it looked like when it was first built?
I don't know why I'm always drawn to birds. These falcons were beyond spectacular!
However, my absolute favorite part of the Luxor experience came in a package of three. The family that lived next door to Ernesto was an internally displaced Egyptian family that had been moved while Mubarak was still in power. This family, along with many others around Ernesto, had lived on top of the tombs for hundreds of years. The Egyptian government claimed that they were grave robbers and turned off all of their electricity and water, which forced them to move. Their homes were then destroyed, right in front of their very eyes.

The package of three turned out to be three little girls, very outgoing and mischievous. They made my heart smolder and I forgot every bad thing that had happened in Egypt. They called me Shakira and made me dance with them until I couldn't move my hips any more. Jay and I found ourselves in their home listening to Arabic music while the little girls performed in front of us. One was an especially good dancer and I prayed that she wouldn't be given to some man at an older age because of her beauty and amazing skill. *We learned later than her parents wanted both of the girls to become educated and make their own decisions, thanks to the influence of Ernesto.* The family was very smart and spoke almost perfect English. They made delicious meals for us and refused to take money from Jay when she tried to pay. We bought a lot of scarves and other handmade things to make up for this later.
With my three little dancers. :)
We danced and laughed under the moonlight, sat beside of a small fire and shared stories, and the girls rubbed henna on our hands so we would be "even more beautiful." Mohamed, their father, tried to sell us off to his friends and they offered us many camels and a lot of good food but we had to turn down their offers. :) My spirit felt at ease and I was in awe of the love and goodwill around me. Jay and I talked about how we met in Uganda, we compared the Egyptian sky with that of Gulutown, and how we were so fortunate to be in that place together.
Shakira and Jawahe. ;)

Inshallah, we will be so lucky again.