Friday, November 25, 2011

"You're a desert girl now."


Sometimes I go through these maddening stages where all I want to do is write. I have this lovely little journal that I purchased before I came to Cairo. I’ve written bits and thoughts of things that I’ve learned, heard, seen, or tasted. Sometimes I also find dessert (also DESERT) crumbs and varying colors of coffee stains that make a nice addition to the bare pages that I started to write on, which is quite humorous because that helps me to remember where I was and what I was doing on that day.

However, life has been a bit chaotic lately and I tend to get dates and times mixed up and frequently forget how to function properly on a day-to-day basis. Perhaps this means I am adapting quite well to Egyptian society? Let’s hope so. I have fortunately laid off of the shisha but have found other devices of self destruction, such as Haribo gummies in the shape of teeth and cinnamon porridge, to help my daily advances.



In the last few weeks I’ve experienced some rather interesting things, one topic concerning the outlook of AUC students and its female population in general I will have to save and elaborate more on during another blog.

Sandboarding.
This is definitely one of the best things that I have done in Egypt so far. After getting a late start and having to drive a bit longer than expected, which was perfectly fine due to the fun music and great company, I found myself in the middle of nowhere. In this case, the middle of nowhere looks like a mirage—nothing but desert sand and massive, beautiful dunes for miles. I’ve never seen anything like it in my whole life. 



As my friend Angela and I were unloading the truck/trying to make ourselves look busy, the tour guides quickly gave directions to another party that came in a different caravan. They started climbing and slipping up to the top of the dune and slowly began to slide back down while sitting on their bottoms.  I then heard, “Whitney, yalla!”

I found myself clambering up the sandy dune and began to wish for death. It was outrageously hot and I felt like an injured mountain goat, or perhaps a rhinoceros, while making my way to the top. FINALLY I was able to reach the peak. It took longer than expected from immense amounts of laughing and buckets of sand in my socks and eyes. I stood up and tried to take everything in—the view was surreal. All I could see was the beautiful desert that at times looked an eerie shade of blue. The rays of the massive sun and the cool, salty wind teased my skin and hair. Goose bumps covered my body. It was a breathtakingly, gracious reminder of why I had fallen in love with Egypt. I was startled that this place had remained somewhat the same for thousands of years. I was lucky beyond belief to experience such a creation. 



I felt a nudge on my shoulder and realized I had to go down at some point. I decided to be a scaredy cat the first time and sat down as securely on the board as possible. It started moving through the sand so quickly and I completely forgot what I was supposed to do after leaving the top of the dune. Fortunately, I screamed my way down the dune and ended at the bottom without any battle wounds. The second trek to the top proved to be as successful and I actually managed to sand board without falling all of the way to the bottom of the hill! It was so invigorating and exciting! At this point I was exhausted and decided Angela and I needed nourishment.

After several peanut butter and strawberry sandwiches later, followed by apples, grapes, and popcorn, we continued to trek around the desert. I felt like I walked miles and miles in my bare feet as the day began to grow cooler. Before we knew it we had spent hours playing and the sun grew tired of our frenzied adventures. We marched for the last time up to the top of an untouched dune for the most beautiful sunset that I’ve ever seen. The sun didn’t look like a sun at all. It was so strange and pink, like a huge glowing candy ball without any rays beaming off of it. The setting sun was selfish and only stayed for a few moments before it melted into the horizon.


Saturday, November 19, 2011

Who's Afraid of the Big Bad Wolf?

RED.
Signs of my beloved Autumn and the beautiful Tennessee season.
The best apples to use when making candied treats for Halloween.
Candy-Apples_full
Slightly provocative and absolutely carefree—how I always feel when wearing red.
My favorite color to wear on my lips—MAC Russian Red, to be exact.
  Russianred
The cloak that conceals my favorite fairy tale character’s brave little face.
Dreams of the perfect crimson shoes that I have yet to find.
Strands of my mother’s fiery hair while she works on her garden and the rays of the country sun setting after.
The current blush of my face, I just stumbled out of bed after tossing and turning all night—bewildered and exasperated.
A sign of the building resentment in my tired green eyes.
RED—my blood is boiling.
RED—the only color that I can see.

RED.
It means STOP.
Not go, damn it.
STOP.
Why is it than when a woman says, ”STOP” some men have a tendency to GO?
  Stopsign
For instance, last night my friend was in a taxi on her way to meet me for shisha at Villa 55, perhaps one of our favorite afternoon places in Maadi, Cairo. While on her way to the restaurant she noticed that the taxi driver kept looking back at her legs, even though her modest skirt came down to her knees. When giving the driver directions of how to reach the restaurant the driver commented on how good her Arabic was and proceeded to reach back and rub her legs. My friend quickly pushed his hand away and he grabbed onto it while she was resisting and forced his way onto her legs again. She yelled “NO” and “STOP” but he kept driving the taxi until she opened the side of the door and began to drag her feet on the ground until he came to a complete stop.

Is this necessary, to have to throw oneself out of moving vehicle to feel safe and secure? My initial thought would be no. I’m not trying to generalize. Not every taxi driver in Egypt is like this and a majority of men in the world would not behave this way, although occurrences like this happen all over the globe at every moment of every day.

I can’t help but think of the several instances when I was back in Knoxville working at FIZZ in Market Square. A slightly deluded and deranged man would often come into the boutique to browse around drunkenly, possibly buy a few things, and stare at me with immense interest. He began to frequent the store more often and I would have to dash to the back of the store and the manager would have to appear so he would leave without bothering any customers or me. It got to the point where we had to buy a bell to keep at the front of the store to ring in case the man came in (often times my co-workers and I would forget about the symbolic importance of the bell and would sometimes make up little tunes to play if no one was in the store, then whoever was in the back would race to the front to make sure that the creeper wasn’t doing something outrageous…which he did on a few occasions). He even decided to give me the nickname “Little Red Riding Hood”.
  Vogue_little_red_riding_hood_0909
Finally, it got to the point where I was being stalked. One day I was opening the store for an hour by myself and the man came in. Like a wolf he cornered me behind the desk of the store and I could not get to a phone or away from him. He tried to touch my red hair that he was so fond of but I couldn’t hide my face from him. At this point I backed away and said, “No, stop please.” Then he began muttering about guns and how I should protect myself. He asked if I liked guns and I felt my knees buckle beneath me. I prayed for a cloak of protection. I begged God for him to leave. ***My closest friends and family have always been concerned about my lack of the “sixth sense” that most women possess. At this moment ALL of my senses were raging and I felt like someone was stabbing me in the stomach, making my inside writhe with the strangest pain. I felt so trapped and confined—which is my biggest fear, to not be able to move or go when I want.*** Two women walked into the store and at that moment I swore they were angels. Then, like the evanescence of a dream, the man left after a few terrifying seconds. I miraculously pulled myself together and managed to walk out from behind the counter to call the police.

I’ve heard so many stories of small assaults such as this and know that my own loved ones (my beautiful and strong sorority sisters, amazing church  and family members, and unforgettable mentors) have experienced such injustices. One should note that women are not the only ones who receive this type of treatment! My best gay friend has also been the subject of harassment and unwanted contact.

Cairo has reminded me on a daily basis of why I have come here. Fortunately, it’s not to the point where I’ve had to get one of these bad boys but they are a rather interesting invention. Who's afraid of the big bad wolf now!? Rape Axe: Take Back the Power http://www.antirape.co.za/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=6&Itemid=18
I’ve had to behave a bit differently and have had to wrap myself in a sort of meekness that I am definitely not used to but you can bet your bottom dollar that my cloak is not a boring and dull, old thing. It’s effervescent, full of life, and most importantly…RED.


"Smoke your shisha like a man!"

Cairo.
Chaotic. Confusing. Charming. Chanting. Classes. Cruising. Carrot-free…Curses.
Caitlyn.
My muse of a younger sister, made me realize that I have been away from home for more than one month now.

She unknowingly made me think about how I have been blessed beyond belief with the ability to make friends with most anything or anyone, making the transition in Cairo much easier. If I were stuck in a room with a Venus flytrap for example I’m sure we would be having conversations about how it is not humane to play with one’s food and how it’s rather unladylike to sit around all day with one’s mouth hanging open.
  Venus-fly-trap-cluster
Speaking of one’s mouth hanging open…the food in Cairo has been as satisfactory as I remember, although it’s been difficult at times to get all of the nice green produce that I desire. McDonalds, KFC, and Papa Johns are just a few of the fast food chains that deliver most any time of the day! Fortunately I have not succumbed to this temptation but instead have inhaled tragic amounts of shisha upon my arrival. My fantastic roommate, Melissa, has also surrendered to the great pipe and has bought a precious little shisha from Khan el Khalili (along with apple, plum, cherry, and energy drink flavored tobacco).
Alice17
***Yes, we admit we have a problem but there could be worse things—such as NOT having a Sephora branch in Cairo.  ***
Life here has been nothing short of challenging for a number of reasons but I think I’m adapting quite well. The most annoying thing about living here is the male population, mostly the uneducated and lower class. In Gulu I experienced quite a bit of heckling but here it’s always constant. Men here seem to be a bit more brave and vulgar. Car horns honking, hissing and lip puckering, as well as other choice words that might include profanity are becoming a part of my daily routine. Although the worst incident by far was just a few days ago when two young boys, they couldn’t have been more than 8 years old, started throwing fist sized rocks at my roommate and I because we honestly did not have any spare change to give them!

I’ve also been able to see quite a few interesting things concerning post-Revolution issues such as the Israeli Embassy being thrown about like confetti and Egyptian students on campus tearing down the American flag from its pole in protest of the current AUC President, Lisa Anderson.
http://egyptianchronicles.blogspot.com/2011/09/auc-strike-and-flag-mania-reaches-to.html
Even though this sounds pessimistic it is not meant to be. Many Egyptians here have been embarrassed and ashamed for the acts that have been occurring throughout Cairo. A driver last week informed me that it was completely unnecessary for what happened to the embassy. He stated, “What will happen to our embassy in Israel? I fear for it now and for the humility of the Egyptian people. I do not want to live in shame.” It’s because of statements like this remind me why I love Egypt.

Rarely will you be able to go out into the world and find a place so diverse and captivating. There are mansions and villas that align some of the finer streets in Cairo, but there are also tiny little shacks on the street beside of them where a family of five will live as happily as possible. Women wearing full niqab will stare at me in disdain or curiosity as I walk through the streets wearing a three quarter length top and a quite the long skirt, while they sit in a movie theater listening to curses and watching small forms of sexual acts—this I experienced last night after seeing the film Horrible Bosses, which was absolutely hilarious by the way…and probably quite inappropriate for women wearing niqab to be watching but who am I to judge? My mind is constantly brewing because of this insanely fascinating culture and the Egyptian way of life. Speaking of brewing, I could really use a chai tea latte. This kind is so tasty!
VanillaChai
(I blame the religious studies deparment at UT but) this constant thinking, looking, and analyzing has become really quite exhausting which is why I must go for a little nap before “studying”.

Sweetest dreams wherever in the world you may be.